Montserrat, Spain and the Black Madonna

 On one of our 4 days in Barcelona we took the train for an hour ride to the mountain town of Monserrat in the Monserrat Mountains. From there we rode the Cremallera Rack Railway to the Monserrat Monastery to view the Black Madonna.

the little Rack Railway station

the Rack Railway train

our destination is under the red arrow

Montserrat Monastery

Santa Maria de Montserrat is an abbey of the Order of Saint Benedict. It was founded in 1025 and rebuilt between the 19th and 20th centuries. 

climbing the steps to the next level

the Abbey of Montserrat

The Basilica is through the arches. We had tickets for a specific tour time, so we did not do any exploring. We entered the Basilica and the queue as it passed by 4 altars, numerous works of art, statues and even a stained glass window.

There are about 80 monks is residence at the Monastery.

There is also a hostel for visitors on pilgrimage and a couple of hotels. (Weekend prices for a room listed at $400) There were little shops and a post office.

The Escolania, Montserrat's Boys’ Choir, is one of the oldest in Europe, and performs during religious ceremonies and communal prayers in the basilica. 

There is a museum on the grounds with art by many prominent painters. There is also a publishing house with one of the oldest presses in the world still running, with its first book published in 1499.

the portal of alabaster to access the room of the Virgin

one of two entrances to the Crypt

In 1811 and in 1812, during Napoleon's invasion of Spain, the abbey was twice burned down and sacked by Napoleon's troops, and many of its treasures were lost. In 1835, the abbey was closed until restoration in 1844. ~ Wikipedia

Our first glimpse of the Black Madonna. We passed through silver doors, up several steps into a small niche which was actually behind the altar of the Basilica. 

In 2001, renovators working for the government observed that the black hands and face of La Moreneta had over the centuries undergone a change in color. They attribute the change—from a lighter tone to black—either to prolonged exposure to candle smoke or a chemical reaction caused by a varnish used as a paint sealant. The statue was repainted black by successive generations of restorers. A series of tests, including X-rays, revealed the statue's original color and also showed that the last repainting took place at the turn of the 19th century. ~ Wikipedia

The Black Madonna statue, carved in the 12th century, is also known as 'The Dark One' or Our Lady of Montserrat. The wood statue is encased behind a glass case since ????. In 1947 through donated funds, she was placed on a silver throne. She holds an orb in her right hand, half of which is on the outside of the glass case and can be touched. Her left had is near the shoulder of her son who sits on her lap. Jesus holds a pinecone in his left hand, the symbol of fertility and everlasting life. His right hand is raised in a blessing. Both Mother and Child are wearing crowns.

After leaving the Black Madonna, we passed a security person and went down several steps and turned right and entered the Crypt. It is a barrel vaulted room opened in 1951.

The Crypt holds the tombs of monks of Montserrat who were murdered in the Spanish Civil War 1936-1939.

We left the Crypt walking through the Path of Hail Mary

where candles could be purchased and lit

the Basilica Sanctuary

The Black Madonna is the lighted arch in the center of the photo

Initial construction of the basilica of Montserrat began in the 16th century, and its complete reconstruction began in the year 1811, after being destroyed in the Peninsular War. It is a single nave, 68 meters by 21 meters.

above the door entrance to the Basilica

atrium to the Basilica

According to the legend, in the 9th century, the image of the Virgin was found in a cave on the mountain by shepherds. The cave can also be visited while at the monastery.

Montserrat's highest point, Sant Jeroni, can be reached by footpaths leading from the monastery.

Aeri, the cable car, goes to the top of the mountain.

One of the hotels behind the Rack Railway station and across the street from shops we did not have time to explore.

the town of Montserrat down below

These photos are of our 4 course meal. Appetizers (tapas) included l-r Blood sausage ball, caviar and an herbed bread item. Followed by l-r a Ham croquette, a cold poached egg and liver paté. For our entree (maybe 7 choices) we all chose cod on a tomato base with a sauce (not tartar). Lemon sorbet for dessert. Let’s just say it was a culinary experience at 40 Euro per person. We tasted everything but only finished the cod and the sorbet. (Later we learned there were other eating options closer to the Rack Railway station.) Hot dog (pepperoni) pizza was on the menu before getting back to the hotel in Barcelona. It was very good!